Crochet Tutorial: Tunisian Ladder Stitch

The Tunisian ladder stitch is an openwork stitch that I developed when searching for Tunisian crochet stitches that were more flexible and useful than the traditional ones. With this new stitch, you’ll get a sturdy mesh fabric if you use the yarn manufacturer’s recommended hook size. With a very large hook you can produce a lighter, more open mesh.

This is what I like to call a “stacked” Tunisian stitch. New rows are made above the old ones, and not in front of or behind them like most traditional Tunisian stitches. This “stacking” helps prevent the severe rolling that often occurs with Tunisian crochet.

Tunisian Ladder Stitch: How to Do It
U.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain
Chain desired number of stitches.

Base Row 1 – Tunisian Purl for first row only
Starting in 2nd loop from hook, [wrap yarn over front of hook counterclockwise, insert hook into next chain, pull yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made, wrap yarn clockwise around back of hook, draw yarn through chain and onto hook], repeat to end. The number of loops on hook is equal to the number of chains made for the base chain.

Base Row 2
Ch 1, [draw yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1.  Only 1 loop is left on hook.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Ladder Stitches
Skip over both the first vertical bar at the end and the next vertical bar, [wrap yarn over front of hook counterclockwise, insert hook through the work front-to-back between previous vertical bar and the next one, pull yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made, wrap yarn clockwise around back of hook, draw yarn through to front of work and onto hook, slide the new stitch to top of row close to hook], repeat to end, work 1 more st in the end space.  The number of loops on hook is equal to the number of chains made for the base chain.

Main Row 2 (same as Base Row 2)
Ch 1, [draw yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1.  Only 1 loop left on hook.  Gently tug on the finished row stitches to lock the Tunisian ladder sts in place.

Repeat Main Rows 1 & 2 to desired length.

Tunisian Ladder Stitch: Photo Tutorial
U.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain

Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1 – Tunisian Purl for first row only

Make the first stitch in second chain from hook, [wrap the working yarn over the front of the hook counterclockwise,

insert the hook into the next chain, pull the working yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made,

wrap the yarn clockwise around the back of the hook, draw the yarn through the chain and onto the hook],

repeat to end. The number of loops on the hook will equal the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2

Chain 1, [draw a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook],

repeat to end, chain 1.  There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.  Looking at your work, you'll see a series of vertical bars going down the row.  It may help to give the row a stretch end-to-end, to straighten up the bars.

Tip: when you're ready to put down your work and do something else, place a removable stitch marker in the loop on the hook at this point. If you do it before the ch1 at the end, the marker may pull through the last 2 loops and undo some of your work.


Main Row 1 - Tunisian Ladder Stitches

Skip over both the first vertical bar at the end and the next vertical bar, [wrap the yarn over the front of the hook counterclockwise,

insert the hook through the work front-to-back between the previous vertical bar and the next one, pull the yarn to the front – straightening out the yarn-over you just made,

wrap the yarn clockwise around the back of the hook, draw the yarn through to the front of the work and onto hook,

slide the stitch to the top of the row close to the hook],

repeat to end, work 1 more st in the end space.

Main Row 2   (same as Base Row 2)

Chain 1, [draw a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook],

repeat to end, chain 1.  There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Gently tug on the finished row stitches to lock the Tunisian ladder stitches in place.

Repeat Main Rows 1 - 2 to desired length.


Upper Edge

For a neat, uniform edge on your final row, make a single-crochet stitch between vertical bars: skip over the first 2 vertical bars, sc to end, and make 1 more sc in the final space.  With each sc, pull through both loops on hook, leaving only the newly made loop on the hook--no extra loops this time.

Some Tips for Tunisian Crochet

Here are a few things to try if you encounter curling, slanting, or stiffness:

• Use a larger-than-usual hook, 3-5 sizes larger than recommended on the yarn label.
• Try thinner yarn.
• Use relaxed, less springy yarn, like cotton instead of wool.
• Do not work tightly.
• Be sure to skip over the first vertical bar(s) in each casting-on row (main row 1).
• Crochet a border around your work.

You can find additional information on Tunisian crochet here:

Get Started with Tunisian Crochet
    includes a photo tutorial on the basic Tunisian stitch
Tunisian Purl Stitch
    a photo tutorial on how to crochet the Tunisian Purl stitch
How to Stop Crying Over Tunisian Crochet
    troubleshooting Tunisian crochet

The Corrected Whimsical Witch-Hat and Elfitude Patterns

Well this is embarrassing.

I have replaced the Whimsical Witch-Hat and Elfitude patterns with corrected versions.  The crochet hook I used for developing the patterns was a brand-new one with the wrong size indicated on the molded label and on the printed package.  To make these hats, please use US size L, or 8 mm.  If you have a Boye hook that says 'N', it might be incorrect like mine, and it will work fine.  The best bet is to measure your hook with a caliper to get the millimeters.  And always make a gauge swatch. 

Thank you for your patience!

Crochet Tutorial: Tunisian Purl Stitch

Tunisian purl is a variation on the basic Tunisian stitch, or afghan stitch.  It produces a right-side surface that looks a bit like knitted garter stitch, and it's a great way to prevent curled edges.  As an added bonus, the other side has a very nice ridged look.

This is by far, my preferred stitch in Tunisian crochet, and I recommend using it instead of the basic Tunisian stitch.

Tunisian Purl Stitch: How to Do It
U.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain
Chain loosely or use one size larger hook and chain tightly.  Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1
Start in 2nd chain from hook, [insert hook into chain, pull yarn through, and leave loop on hook], repeat to end. You'll have the same number of loops on the hook as the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2
Ch 1, [pull yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1.  Only 1 loop is left on hook.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Purl Stitches
Skip over first vertical bar at the end,  [wrap yarn over front of hook counterclockwise, insert hook into next vertical bar, pull yarn to the front - straightening out the yarn-over you just made, wrap yarn clockwise around back of hook, draw yarn through the bar and onto hook], repeat to end.  Be sure to work the final vertical bar at the end of the row, next to the end chain.

Main Row 2 (same as Base Row 2)
Ch 1, [pull yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1.  Only 1 loop left on hook.

Repeat Main Rows 1 & 2 to desired length.

Tunisian Purl Stitch: Photo Tutorial
U.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain

Chain loosely or use one size larger hook and chain tightly.  Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1

Start in the second chain from the hook, [insert your hook into the chain, draw the yarn through the chain and onto the hook], repeat to end.

You'll have as many loops on the hook as the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2

Chain 1, [pull a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook], repeat to end, chain 1.  There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Looking at your work, you'll see a series of vertical bars going down the row.  It may help to give the row a stretch end-to-end, to straighten up the bars.

Main Row 1 - Tunisian Purl Stitches

Skip over the first vertical bar at the end by the hook,  [wrap the working yarn over the front of the hook counterclockwise,

insert the hook into the next vertical bar, pull working yarn to the front - straightening out the yarn-over you just made,

wrap the yarn clockwise around the back of the hook, draw the yarn through the bar and onto the hook], repeat to end.

Be sure to work the final vertical bar at the very end of the row, next to the end chain.

Main Row 2   (same as Base Row 2)

Chain 1, [pull a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook], repeat to end, chain 1.  There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Repeat Main Rows 1 - 2 to desired length.


Upper Edge

For a neat, uniform edge on your final row, make a Tunisian purl stitch in each vertical bar - including the first bar on the end, pulling through both loops on hook, and leaving only the newly made loop on the hook - no extra loops this time.

You Might Have a Few Surprise Problems

Most standard Tunisian stitches have some problems: curling, slanting, and stiffness.  Here are a few things to try:

• Use a larger-than-usual hook, 3-5 sizes larger than recommended on the yarn label.
• Try thinner yarn.
• Use relaxed, less springy yarn, like cotton instead of wool.
• Do not work tightly.
• Be sure to skip over the first vertical bar in each casting-on row (main row 1).
• Don't miss the last vertical bar for your last stitch in a casting-on row.  It can be hidden with the end-chain.
• Crochet a border around your work.

You can find additional information on Tunisian crochet here:

Get Started with Tunisian Crochet
    includes a tutorial on the basic Tunisian stitch
Tunisian Ladder Stitch Tutorial
   how to crochet the new Tunisian ladder stitch
How to Stop Crying Over Tunisian Crochet
    troubleshooting Tunisian crochet

Get Started with Tunisian Crochet

Tunisian or afghan crochet may seem like a mysterious technique that's not for the faint-of-heart.  But really, it's pretty easy.

This type of crochet consists of using a hook that looks a lot like a knitting needle, and working back and forth across the front of the work.  You never turn it.

Tunisian crochet is done in 2-row sets.  The first row puts loops on the long shaft of the hook, working right to left (if you're right-handed).  The second row works the loops off, left to right.  Then you do it again.

The standard Tunisian stitch, also known as the afghan stitch, creates vertical bars in the work.  New rows are made by working in those bars.

The Hook

You'll need a Tunisian crochet hook, which looks like a cross between a crochet hook and a knitting needle.  There's a hook on one end, and the other end has a blocker on it to stop the loops from sliding off.  Some Tunisian hooks have a cable attached to the end, so you can accommodate very long rows.

Choose a hook size that corresponds to the yarn manufacturer's recommendation, or a size or two larger.  Traditional Tunisian crochet works up tightly, so you don't want to go smaller.

For this tutorial, you won't need a double-ended Tunisian hook.  They're made for circular Tunisian crochet.  If double-ended is all you've got, there's a way to rig the hook so it will work for flat crochet.  Keep reading.

You can adapt a regular crochet hook by winding a rubber band tightly around the shaft near the flat end, to act as a blocker.  Just be sure your rubber band is put on tightly enough to not fall off while you work. This doesn't leave much room for your loops, but it'll work in a pinch--especially for gauge swatches.  This trick also works for double-ended hooks.

The Yarn

Start with yarn that matches up with your crochet hook size.  Later, you can experiment with thinner yarns or non-stretchy fibers like cotton.

Tunisian Stitch: How to Do It       U.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain
Chain desired number of stitches.

Base Row 1
Start in 2nd chain from hook, [insert hook into chain, pull yarn through, and leave loop on hook], repeat to end. You'll have the same number of loops on the hook as the number of chains you made for the base chain.

Base Row 2
Ch 1, [pull yarn through both the new loop and next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1.  Only 1 loop is left on hook.

Main Row 1
Skip over first vertical bar at the end,[insert hook into next vertical bar, pull yarn through the bar and onto hook], repeat to end.  Be sure to work the final vertical bar at the end of the row, next to the end chain.

Main Row 2 (same as Base Row 2)
Ch 1, [pull yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on hook], repeat to end, ch 1.  Only 1 loop left on hook.

Repeat Main Rows 1 & 2 to desired length.

Tunisian Stitch: Photo Tutorial       U.S. crochet terminology

Base Chain

Make as many chains as you want stitches to be in each row.

Base Row 1

 Starting in the second chain from the hook, [insert the hook into the top of the chain, pull a loop of the working yarn through, and leave the loop on the hook], repeat to end. You'll have the same number of loops on the hook as the number of chains you made for the base chain.

This is sometimes called "casting-on."

Base Row 2

Chain 1, [pull a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook], repeat to end, chain 1.  There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

This is sometimes called "casting-off."

Looking at your work, you can see a series of vertical bars going down the row.  It may help to give the row a stretch end-to-end, to straighten up the bars.

Main Row 1

 Skip over the first vertical bar at the end by the hook, [insert the hook into the next vertical bar, pull a loop of the working yarn through the bar and onto the hook], repeat to end.  The final vertical bar is at the very end of the row, with the end chain.

Main Row 2 (same as Base Row 2)

Chain 1, [pull a loop of the working yarn through both the new loop and the next loop on the hook], repeat to end, chain 1.  There should be only 1 loop left on the hook.

Repeat Main Rows 1 - 2 to desired length.

Upper Edge

For a neat, uniform edge on your final row, skip over the first vertical bar and make a full single crochet stitch in each remaining bar, leaving only the newly made loop on the hook - no extra loops this time.

You Might Have a Few Surprise Problems

Most standard Tunisian stitches have some problems: the edges curl, the work sometimes slants, and the resulting fabric can be very stiff.

Here are a few things to try.

• Use a larger-than-usual hook, 3-5 sizes larger than recommended on the yarn label.
• Try thinner yarn.
• Use relaxed, less springy yarn, like cotton instead of wool.
• Do not work tightly.
• Be sure to skip over the first vertical bar in each cast-on row (main row 1).
• Don't miss the last vertical bar for your last stitch in a casting-on row.  It can be hidden with the end-chain.
• Crochet a border around your work.

You can find additional information on Tunisian crochet here:

Tunisian Purl Stitch Tutorial
   how to crochet the Tunisian purl stitch
Tunisian Ladder Stitch Tutorial
   how to crochet the new Tunisian ladder stitch
How to Stop Crying Over Tunisian Crochet
    troubleshooting Tunisian crochet

How to Stop Crying Over Tunisian Crochet

I freely admit it.  I have a love/hate relationship with Tunisian or afghan crochet.  On the one hand, it's a fascinating, fun way to broaden your crochet horizons.  On the other hand, it produces stiff, slanted, rolled-up work.  Argh.

Have you found yourself asking questions like these?

• How do I keep Tunisian crochet from curling?
• How can I make Tunisian crochet that's straight?
• How do I make flexible Tunisian crochet?

For the last few months, I've been working with Tunisian crochet and I ran right into those questions head-on.  With a little experimentation I came to several realizations, which I will share with you here.

The Downside

• Most standard Tunisian stitches have the same problems: the dreaded curling and slanting, which practically defy blocking.


• Tunisian crochet originally became popular for making thick, sturdy blankets, so it's not a very friendly fabric for clothing or snuggly blankets.


• There's gotta be a better way.

This Might Help

My first inclination was to try the obvious fixes.  They are helpful, but they don't completely and reliably work.

• Use a larger-than-usual hook, 3-5 sizes larger than recommended on the yarn label.
• Try thinner yarn.
• Use relaxed, less springy yarn, like cotton instead of wool.
• Be sure to skip over the first vertical bar in each cast-on row.
• Don't miss the last vertical bar for your last stitch in a cast-on row.  It can be hidden with the end-chain.
• Crochet a border around your work.

Dry Your Tears

With even more experimentation, I found several better ways to do Tunisian crochet.

• Forget about the traditional Tunisian or afghan stitch.
• Use the Tunisian purl stitch (my favorite).
• Use the Tunisian stockinette stitch.

Tunisian Purl Stitch

Tunisian Stockinette Stitch

And Now for Something Completely Different

The end result of my foray into this form of crochet was actually the development of a new type of Tunisian stitch, which doesn't curl or slant.  It's a technique that I call "stacking," in which you make your new stitches above the previous row instead of in front of or behind the row.  I came up with three brand-new (is anything really new?) stacked stitches.

• Stacked Tunisian stitch
• Tunisian ladders stitch
• Stacked Tunisian lace stitch

Stacked Tunisian Stitch

Tunisian Ladders Stitch

Stacked Tunisian Lace Stitch

Stay tuned.  I'll be posting tutorials on how to do these new stitches. 

Get Started with Tunisian Crochet 
    includes a photo tutorial on the basic Tunisian stitch
Tunisian Ladder Stitch Tutorial
   how to crochet the new Tunisian ladder stitch
Tunisian Purl Stitch
    a photo tutorial on how to crochet the Tunisian Purl stitch
(more to come !)

The Loopy Leprechaun Hat

 

This is a St. Patrick's Day variation on my free Elfitude pattern--a crocheted Dr. Seuss-style elf hat. I think it makes a great leprechaun hat in green.

This hat is made according to the pattern instructions, except the top point is tied onto the body of the hat a bit lower than the original Elfitude hat in red.

Have a blast on St. Pat's!

Tarnation Kitchen Runner Rug

Here's a runner-sized variation on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug pattern.  It's a great size for a hallway, RV floor, or in front of the sink in your kitchen.  I like to use a runner long-ways in front of a back door or door into the garage, as a long walk-off mat.

The runner measures 75 inches long and 21 inches wide.  This rug used tarn made from 14 t-shirts in a variety of sizes (some very large, some small).

Here are the modifications to the original free pattern, to get a runner like this:

1. Chain 153 for the foundation or base chain.

2. Use standard single-crochet (U.S. terms).

For more variations on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug, see the following posts:
Carmel Macchiato Tarnation Rug
Drip-Dry Tarnation Rug
Plarnation Rectangle Rug

Ruffle Cuffs in Crochet

These ruffled wristwarmers are crocheted with sportweight yarn.  Fast and fun to make: no seaming or blocking.  An innovative ruffling technique is included, which produces uniform ruffles that keep their shape.  Wear them tucked in or tucked out, or put one on your jam jar to dress up a meal.

Skill Level   Easy - Intermediate

Yarn
86-120 yds / 79-110m sportweight / DK wool, acrylic, or blend


A free .pdf of this pattern is available as a Ravelry download.

download now

You can find crochet tips and variations for this pattern in the following posts:
Ruffled Jar Cozy
Smooth Chain Finish
Forming a Base Chain Circle