Plarnation Rectangle Rug

This variation on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug is crocheted with plarn (PLastic yARN), made from cut up grocery bags. I think it will make a great little patio rug.

There are no real modifications needed to the pattern, except to use plarn instead of tarn. The rug pictured above took 40 regular-sized grocery bags for the plarn, and it measures 21" wide by 31" long. It's got 56 rows plus the foundation chain.

Click here for plarn-making instructions.

Note: This rug is machine-washable.
Don't put it in the dryer--it will melt.

For other variations on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug, see the following posts:
Carmel Macchiato Tarnation Rug
Drip-Dry Tarnation Rug
Tarnation Kitchen Runner Rug

Mending a Tarn Rug

After years of frequent machine-washing and drying, your tarn rug might develop a few failed stitches at the edges. You can fix this by making a single-crochet border around the rug, using more tarn.

Here's how to do it:

1. With the same size crochet hook and tarn that you used for making the rug originally, start at the corner of the rug nearest the frayed area. Work the stitches for this border slightly tighter than usual, to avoid rippling edges.

2. Make a loop with the tarn, put it on the hook, and work your first sc (U.S. term) in the first row-end st at the corner of the rug.

3. Work 2sc in the row ends between each "bar," and work an sc in the bars until you get to the next corner.

4. Work 3sc in the same st at the corner, and sc across the last edge row or starting foundation chain. At the end, work 3sc in the last st.

5. Repeat steps 3-4 until you arrive where you started. Connect to the first sc of the border with a sl st, tie off, and work in ends.

You can find more tips for the Tarnation Rectangle Rug and Tarnation Oval Rug in the following posts:
How to Make Tarn
Choosing Fabric for Tarn
Saving Your Hands and Arms When Using Tarn
Making the Print Show
Allover Print Tarn

WIP Wednesday: Plarn Tarnation

It's the first anniversary of Work-In-Progress Wednesday, hosted by TamisAmis!! Congratulations, Tami!

This WIP is probably the last variation on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug. From the beginning, I have wanted to try this pattern in plarn (PLastic yARN) made from cut-up grocery bags. It's working up very nicely, although this rug will not be machine-dryable, because plarn melts in the dryer.

Instructions for making plarn are here: How to Make Plarn.

For more WIP Wednesday posts on other blogs, check here.

Drip-Dry Tarnation Rug

Here's a variation on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug. It uses all single crochet stitches, which allow it to hold its shape after washing (see note below). When made according to the pattern, the Tarnation rug is way out of shape when it comes out of the washing machine, and it regains its shape in the dryer. If you don't use a dryer, then you'll want to make the rug a bit differently. Here are the modifications:

1. For a 30" (76.5cm) rug--before washing--ch 71 for your foundation chain. (Dimensions are approximate, tarn is quite variable when it comes to gauge.)

2. On R2 and all subsequent rows, use sc instead of sc-bl (US crochet terms).

Note: After the first washing and line-drying, this rug will have expanded, but it will still be in a nice rectangular shape. In addition to being longer and wider, the stitches will be spread apart, so the rug has little "holes" in it. Also, it will not be as soft as before washing. Machine-drying will restore its size and softness.

For more variations on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug, see the following posts:
Carmel Macchiato Tarnation Rug
Plarnation Rectangle Rug
Tarnation Kitchen Runner Rug

Tarn: Allover-Print Fabric Cutting

If you're making tarn (t-shirt yarn) from cotton-knit fabric with an allover print, then you'll need a special cutting technique, which will let the print show in your tarn. When tarn is cut “across the grain," or horizontally across the t-shirt, its edges curl upward and inward, so that the wrong side of the fabric is mostly visible in the tarn. When cut "with the grain," or vertically on the t-shirt, tarn’s edges curl downward and inward, so that the right side of the fabric is mostly visible.

With printed t-shirt fabric, you can use a zig-zag cut, consisting of vertical cuts that allow the tarn to curl so the print shows. It works especially well with rugs, like the Tarnation Rectangle Rug. This is not a perfect solution, because the corners don't curl. Also it is much more time-consuming than other cutting techniques. But the results are often worth it.

Here's how to do it:

1. Cut off the t-shirt hem, seams (if any), and top. Save the scraps for stuffing toys, etc.

2. Make a straight cut from the bottom up to 1/2" (1cm) from the upper edge.

3. At the top edge, move over 1/2" (1cm) and make a straight cut from the top down to 1/2" (1cm) from the lower edge.

4. At the bottom edge, move over 1/2" (1cm) and make a straight cut from the bottom up to 1/2" (1cm) from the upper edge

5. Repeat steps 3-4 until you run out of fabric. (see picture)

6. With your scissors, round off all of the corners.

7. Taper the ends if you'll be using the hand-stitch method of connecting your tarn strips. (see Step 7 in How to Make Tarn)

8. Trim the seams/sleeve hems/collar off the remaining t-shirt fabric, and repeat steps 2-7 for each piece. You don't have to start with a rectangular shape--just be sure your cuts are running generally "with the grain," and not across.

Tarn produced in this way will curl inward towards the wrong side of the fabric, leaving the print side showing. The curved corner flaps don't curl, and they will be worked in as you crochet or knit. Sometimes a flap will end up on the surface of your work, but since it has the same print as the surrounding stitches, it usually blends in--not noticeable if you're standing on a rug. You can see some flaps in the photo below. The gray and tan sections of the rug were made with printed tarn.

You can find more tips for the Tarnation Rectangle Rug  and Tarnation Oval Rug in the following posts:
How to Make Tarn
Choosing Fabric for Tarn
Saving Your Hands and Arms When Using Tarn
Making the Print Show
Mending a Tarn Rug

Tarn: Making the Print Show

Most of the time, tarn curls in on itself to show only the wrong side of the t-shirt fabric. This gives a nice, workable "yarn," but it doesn't allow the t-shirt print to show when you knit or crochet with it. Showing the print is a great way to add visual interest to a tarn rug, like the Tarnation Rectangle Rug.

There are two ways to solve the problem. My usual solution is to turn out the print side when I get to it while I'm working with the tarn. This takes some extra time, and it's a bit tedious--but with the way t-shirts are normally printed, you only have to do this for a few stitches, then there's a long stretch of unprinted tarn.

(The second way to solve this problem involves using a zig-zag cutting technique.)

Here's how to turn out the print while you are crocheting. Do this for every loop of the printed stitches. For example, for an sc (US term) stitch you will make 2 loops, each being made with a new turnout.

1. Fold the working tarn longwise so the printed side is showing.

2. Hold the fold in place with your non-dominant hand, and hook the tarn, keeping the fold intact under the crochet hook.

3. Carefully draw the loop through, making sure the printed side of the tarn is still showing.






You can find more tips for the Tarnation Rectangle Rug and Tarnation Oval Rug patterns in the following posts:
How to Make Tarn
Choosing Fabric for Tarn
Saving Your Hands and Arms When Using Tarn
Allover Print Tarn
Mending a Tarn Rug

How to Make Tarn (T-Shirt Yarn)

Here's how I like to make tarn (T-shirt yARN) for the Tarnation Rectangle Rug and Tarnation Oval Rug patterns. It works great for me, and the 1/2" or 1 cm width makes it fairly easy on the hands and arms when working it up.

Just to know: When tarn is cut “across the grain," or horizontally across the t-shirt, its edges curl upward and inward, so that the wrong side of the fabric is mostly visible in the tarn. When cut "with the grain," or vertically on the t-shirt, tarn’s edges curl downward and inward, so that the right side of the fabric is mostly visible. The following steps will yield tarn that is primarily cut across the grain. If there is print on the right side of the shirt, it will not show. There are ways to get around this: turning out the print, and the zigzag cut.

1. Collect your t-shirts or other cotton-knit garments to be used. For best results, use items from the same manufacturer’s line. Variations in fabric content and thickness can make your project uneven. Sometimes that adds interest, but the finished product will not be as uniform, especially after washing. (For more info, see Choosing Shirts for a Tarn Rug.)

Tip: If your finished tarn item comes out of the dryer looking uneven, just give it a few yanks with your hands holding the row-ends, to straighten it up.

2. Cut the hem off the bottom of the t-shirt. If the shirt has side seams, cut all the seams off the front or back section. Save the scraps for stuffing toys, etc.

Tip: Turn the t-shirt inside-out before cutting the hem or seams off--it’s easier to see where to cut. Hold the hem or seam in your non-dominant hand while you cut with your dominant hand.

3. Cut diagonally into the hemless bottom of the shirt until you have a 1/2” (1cm)-wide strip started. This will give you a tapered end, for the needle-and-thread method of connecting strips in step 7. The ends are tapered to avoid tarn that is too bulky at the point of overlap.

Tip: Turn the t-shirt right-side-out and cut on the right side of the fabric--it’s easier to cut when the tarn edges are curling upward instead of downward where you can’t see. Also, hold the edge of the fabric (instead of the bunched-up shirt) in your non-dominant hand while cutting for better control of the fabric.

4. Tube Spiral - If the shirt does not have side seams, you can continue cutting the tarn strip, spiraling up to where the sleeves are attached. Taper-off the end, like the start of the strip.

Tip: When rolling your tarn into a ball, you can stretch the printed sections, to reduce the bulk and make them almost as flexible as the unprinted tarn. If you want the print to show on the outside of the tarn, turn it out while crocheting or knitting.

Note: If you have an allover-print t-shirt fabric, the tube spiral cut will completely hide the print. In order to make the print visible on the tarn, you must use a zigzag vertical cut technique.

5. Flat Spiral - If the shirt has side seams, continue cutting the tarn across the bottom, up the side, across the sleeve and collar edges, and down the other side. When you get to where you started, angle your cut upward so you can keep going in a flat spiral. Since tarn is stretchy, it’s forgiving at the corners, but you can round them off a little by trimming the points. Taper-off the width when you come to the end.

Note: Some tarn-makers stretch their tarn before rolling it into a ball. It makes the tarn more cord-like, but they only use tube-spiral cut tarn. This doesn’t work well with flat-spiral cut tarn--too many flappy corners and vertical cuts.

6. Cut the seams/collar/sleeve hems off any remaining shirt fabric, and cut more strips using the Flat Spiral method in step 5.

7. Connecting Strips - Overlap the tapered ends by about 1” (2.5cm). With a needle and thread, hand-sew 6-7 stitches straight up the middle. Backstitch works well for this.

Tip: Instead of tying off the sewing thread with a knot, you can take 3-4 tiny stitches at the end of the line of backstitches, to hold it in place.

Note: There are several other ways of connecting tarn, including tying a knot, sewing a diagonal seam, and cutting a slit and threading through. Your choice depends on what kind of item you’re making and how smooth the connections need to be. The method in step 7 provides a smooth connection that takes less time than the diagonal seam method.


WARNING: Don’t cut tarn across the shirt seams. The seam stitches will not hold your tarn together, especially in the wash.

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You can find more tips for the Tarnation Rectangle Rug and Tarnation Oval Rug patterns in the following posts:
Saving Your Hands and Arms when Making and Using Tarn
Choosing Shirts for a Tarn Rug
Making the Print Show
Allover Print Tarn
Mending a Tarn Rug

Carmel Macchiato Tarnation Rug

This rug is made from the Tarnation Rectangle Rug pattern, which is now up on Ravelry (and here) as a free download. Two of the t-shirts had all-over printed fabric, and this gives the rug some added interest in the way it turned out. However, it took a special technique for cutting the tarn so it would curl with the print side out, which is more time-consuming than regular tarn-cutting. It looks so good, I think it was worth the extra effort. Here's how to do it.

For more variations on the Tarnation Rectangle Rug, see the following posts:
Drip-Dry Tarnation Rug
Plarnation Rectangle Rug
Tarnation Kitchen Runner Rug

Avoiding the Owie with Tarn

Cutting and working with tarn (T-shirt yARN) can be painful. Here are some tips for minimizing the owie, which you can use with the Tarnation Rectangle Rug and Tarnation Oval Rug patterns.

1. Don't get too carried away with cutting the tarn, or your hand will start to hurt. It’s best to break it up into short time periods. I like to cut a shirt or section of a shirt, crochet (or knit) it into the project, and then cut more.

2. Use nice, sharp scissors for cutting tarn. As for sewing, you might want to get a brand new pair, and designate it for tarn cutting only. Scissors used for cutting paper quickly become too dull for fabric cutting, and tarn is a stretchy, thickish fabric, so you need all the help you can get. There have been reports of tarn-cutting wreaking havoc on good sewing scissors, so an inexpensive, new pair of sharp scissors for your tarn is a good idea.

3. Stick with crochet. I love knitting, but for tarn, knitting causes the strands to “grab” the needles, causing a lot of pushing and pulling to get each stitch made. Crochet can be done loosely enough to minimize the grabbiness.

4. Work a bit more loosely than you would with regular yarn. The harder you have to pull to get the stitches made, the sooner your arms, neck, and shoulder will start to hurt.

5. Take lots of breaks. Stop and shake out your hands and arms, stand up and stretch, whatever you need to do to keep the muscles relaxed and the blood circulating. Also, longer breaks give your hands and arms some recovery time.

6. Cut your tarn thin, but not too thin. Anything wider than 1/2” will be hard on your hands and arms, but thinner than that, the fabric can sometimes unravel and break when pulled hard.


You can find more crochet tips for the Tarnation Rectangle Rug and Tarnation Oval Rug patterns in the following posts:
Choosing Shirts for a Tarn Rug
How to Make Tarn
Making the Print Show
Allover Print Tarn
Mending a Tarn Rug

Choosing Shirts for a Tarn Rug

When the shirts you cut for tarn are assorted in fabric content and thickness, your finished item can come out kind of wonky after machine washing and drying. That's because the fabrics draw up differently. In a square or rectangular piece, like the Tarnation Rectangle Rug, it can be a problem, while in a round rug, oval rug, or mesh piece like The Ultimate Recycled Market Bag, it's not even noticeable.

When your rug comes out of the wash looking like the picture above, just give it a few yanks with your hands grasping the row-ends, and the stitches will even themselves up.

But the real solution is in being choosy about which shirts you select for the rug:

1. In the best of all worlds, you would have 5-10 shirts in your closet that were all made by the same manufacturer in the same fabric in complementary colors.

2. In the second-best world, your shirts would still have labels in them stating that they have the same fabric content, and the thickness of the material feels about equal... again in colors that work well together.

3. If you have barely enough shirts, and you're dying to make a rug, just go for it. The rug will still look great, and you can yank it back into shape after washing.

It also helps to follow these suggestions:

4. Make your foundation chain run down the long side of the rug (like in the Tarnation Rectangle Rug pattern, and not like the rug pictured above). Long rows hold their shape better in the wash.

5. Use your thickest fabric with the highest cotton content for the middle rows, and the thinner blends for the beginning and ending rows. As you can see in the rug pictured above, the middle black stripe is the weak link. That's because the stronger rows above and below pull on the black stitches in the wash. If those weaker stitches were on the ends, they wouldn't get jerked around so much.

6. Consider saving your mismatched-fabric shirts for a mesh bag or an oval or round rug. (Here's an oval version of the Tarnation Rug: Tarnation Oval Rug.)


You can find more tips for working with tarn here:
Saving Your Hands and Arms When Using Tarn
How to Make Tarn
Making the Print Show
Allover Print Tarn
Mending a Tarn Rug

Tarnation Rectangle Rug

This easy-to-make crocheted rug is made from t-shirts that have been cut into tarn (T-shirt yARN) — a great way to recycle old cotton-knit garments and get a good-looking, high-use item in exchange. Machine washable and dryable, it’s an excellent rug for kitchen, bath, utility, or entry.

U.S. crochet terms

Skill Level Easy

Yarn 1/2”/1cm-width tarn made from 5-10 adult-sized t-shirts (Instructions for making tarn are included in the pattern.)

Schematic diagram included.

For a free .pdf of this pattern, click here:

download now
You can find tips and variations for this pattern in the following posts:
How to Make Tarn
Choosing Fabric for Tarn
Saving Your Hands and Arms When Using Tarn
Making the Print Show
Allover Print Tarn
Mending a Tarn Rug
Carmel Macchiato Tarnation Rug
Drip-Dry Tarnation Rug
Plarnation Rectangle Rug
Tarnation Kitchen Runner Rug

And another tarnation rug pattern
Tarnation Oval Rug